Daffodil Bulbs ,Narcissus Barrett Browning, FALL PLANTING Caribbeangardenseed

Daffodils are the most cost effective, pest-free perennial plants available and make wonderful companions with other bulbs, perennials, annuals and flowering shrubs. They grow in almost all areas of the United States as long as there is a discernible winter. They are pest-free and when given ample sunlight, water and proper nutrition, will provide early spring color for many years. They are divided into 13 divisions according to their flower shape and heritage. Daffodils should be planted in full sun or at least half day (8 hours) of sunlight after the leaves are on the trees and should be planted 3 x the height of their bulb deep (3″-8″). The ADS defines DIVISION 3 – SMALL CUP as: “One flower to a stem; cup or corona not more than one-third the length of the perianth segments”. These are long-term perennializers, show flowers and late season picked flowers, often with a spicy fragrance; whz 3-8; bulbs are 14/16cm unless otherwise noted; 4-5 per sq. ft.

Detailed Description
Barrett Browning is a garden classic, having proven her ability to perform flawlessly in much of the country. She’s also one of the first of the daffodils to add a touch of toasty orange red to the spring landscape. This small
cup cultivar was introduced in the 1940’s and has won numerous awards – give her a try and you’ll understand the appeal. Deer and rodent proof.
Common Name: Daffodil Barrett Browning
Botanical Name: Narcissus Barrett Browning
Exposure: Full to day sun
Hardiness: Zones 3-9
Height: 14-16″
Color: Crisp white petals and a small orange-red cup
Bloom Season: Early spring
Bulb/Plant Size: 14/16 cm
Number: 10 very large bulbs
Caution: irritant to skin and eyes, harmful if eaten.
Outdoor Beds
Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2-3″ to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Daffodils will not thrive in water logged soils.
Site your daffs where they will receive sun for all or most of the day.
Dig holes and plant the bulbs with their pointed tops 4-7” below the soil surface with smaller bulbs placed more shallowly than larger ones. Allow 4 to 5 bulbs per square foot. Plant September through December; daffodils are tough and can be planted in 100 degree or 40 degree soil. Plant with the pointy side of the bulb facing upwards.
After planting, water daffodils well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots will form in the autumn. In warm regions some foiliage may also develop in the fall on select varieties. Buds and flowers are produced in the spring.
When in bloom, feel free to cut daffodil flowers for bouquets. This will not hurt the plants. One caution: daffodil sap contains a chemical that causes other flowers in the same vase to wilt. This is why you don’t see daffodils mixed with other spring flowers in arrangements.
After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulbs for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1″ of moisture per week is a good estimate.
By late spring or early summer the leaves will yellow and die back as the plants slip into dormancy. Foliage many be removed at this point. Your daffodils will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns
Find a large container and fill it with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; daffodil bulbs must never sit in water logged soil or they will rot.
Site your daffs where they will receive sun for all or most of the day.
Plant the bulbs with their pointed tops 4-7” below the soil surface with smaller bulbs placed more shallowly than larger ones. Allow 6 to 8 bulbs per square foot. Plant September through December; daffodils are tough and can be planted in 100 degree or 40 degree soil. Plant with the pointy side of the bulb facing upwards.
After planting, water daffodils well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots will form in the autumn. In warm regions some foiliage may also develop in the fall on select varieties. Buds and flowers are produced in the spring.
When in bloom, feel free to cut daffodil flowers for bouquets. This will not hurt the plants. One caution: daffodil sap contains a chemical that causes other flowers in the same vase to wilt. This is why you don’t see daffodils mixed with other spring flowers in arrangements.
After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulbs for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1″ of moisture per week is a good estimate.
By late spring or early summer the leaves will yellow and die back as the plants slip into dormancy. Foliage many be removed at this point. Your daffodils will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
Note: For container plantings in zone 6 and colder, we recommend overwintering pots in an unheated garage. This helps mitigate the effects of both very cold nights and the big temperature swings that can come with sunny winter days and bitter nights. Pull the pots outside in late February or March and watch for daffodil sprouts to appear.

Materials: The Garden,Container,Fall Planting,or plant in the garden,Heirloom Bulb,Atropurpureum,Red And white,Tulipa,DAFFODIL,NARCISSUS Wisley