All Blue potato ,Speciality Potato, Retained Color while cooking. High in antioxidants.. Caribbeangardenseed

All of our Potatoes are organically Grown, untreated and ready to use in the kitchen or plant in the garden!
 organic Untreated,Ready to eat or grow. Deep purple skin with solid purple flesh.
High yields of large oblong tubers with consistent, dark blue/purple flesh that hold their color when cooked. High in antioxidants.
Scientific name: Solanum tuberosum ‘Adirondack Blue’
Rank: Cultivar.
Large, oblong potatoes that are blue inside and have a purplish-blue skin. Color is retained while cooking. Excellent yields and flavor. Stores well.
Soil, Planting, and Care
Plants produce potatoes of various shapes and sizes.
Shapes and sizes of homegrown potatoes will vary even from the same plant.
Potatoes are cool-season crops and can survive light frosts. Plant as soon as soil is workable in early spring. Potatoes need fertile, well-drained soil that’s loose and slightly acid (pH 5.8 to 6.5). Hard, compacted soil produces misshapen tubers. Amend heavy clay soil the fall before planting by working organic matter into planting beds. Potatoes form tubers 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface. When stems reach 8 inches tall, draw soil up and around plants, covering half of lower stems. Repeat the process two to three weeks later. Potatoes exposed to sunlight turn green, which causes flesh to taste bitter. Keeping tubers covered prevents greening.

Some gardeners grow their potatoes in straw, placing straw around the 8-inch-tall stems instead of soil. This method yields potatoes that you don’t have to dig, but simply fish out of the straw. If you use the straw method, be sure to keep your straw layer consistent throughout the growing season. It will most likely break down and need to be topped off during the course of growing the potatoes.

Instead of hilling potatoes, some gardeners use layers of straw to cover the stem.
Rather than hilling these potato plants with soil, gardeners at the Wishard Slow Food Garden in Indianapolis layered straw around the plant stems.
Maximum tuber formation occurs when soil temperature is 60 F to 70 F. Tuber formation stops when soil temperature hits 80 F. Mulching soil with straw or other organic matter can help reduce soil temperature. Research has shown that maintaining a 6-inch-thick straw layer around potatoes keeps soil temperatures 10 degrees lower. Potatoes are sensitive to drought. Keep plants consistently moist, especially when plants flower and right after, since this is the peak time when tubers are forming.

Move potatoes to a different place in the garden each year to help limit disease and insect problems. For best success, rotate potatoes on a 3-year program, growing them in a different spot for three years in a row before cycling through the growing spots again.
Soil, Planting, and Care
Plants produce potatoes of various shapes and sizes.
Shapes and sizes of homegrown potatoes will vary even from the same plant.
Potatoes are cool-season crops and can survive light frosts. Plant as soon as soil is workable in early spring. Potatoes need fertile, well-drained soil that’s loose and slightly acid (pH 5.8 to 6.5). Hard, compacted soil produces misshapen tubers. Amend heavy clay soil the fall before planting by working organic matter into planting beds. Potatoes form tubers 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface. When stems reach 8 inches tall, draw soil up and around plants, covering half of lower stems. Repeat the process two to three weeks later. Potatoes exposed to sunlight turn green, which causes flesh to taste bitter. Keeping tubers covered prevents greening

IF YOU MUST DELAY PLANTING: If you need to store your potato before planting them, keep the bag in a cool (40-50°F), well-lit place. The eyes may begin to form chubby little sprouts, but this just indicates that they are ready to grow. Do not remove these sprouts. If the potatoes are stored in a warm, dark place, however, they will make long pale shoots, which will weaken the plants.

CULTURE:Potatoes grow best in well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0. Cut tubers into pieces roughly 1 1/2-2 oz. (1-1 1/4″ diameter) each, with at least one “eye” per piece. Small tubers may be planted whole. Potatoes can be planted in early to mid-spring as they tolerate cool soil and moderate frost. Plant seed pieces 2-3″ deep, 12″ apart, in rows 30-36″ apart. Plants will emerge 2-3 weeks later. When the plants are 6-8″ tall, hill them by mounding soil from each side of the row about 4″ high along the base of the plants to protect developing tubers from greening. Repeat hilling process as plants grow until hills are about 12″ high.
DISEASES:
The best disease control is fertile soil, crop rotation, and consistent moisture.
INSECT PESTS:
Row covers work well to exclude insect pests such as Colorado potato beetles, aphids, and leafhoppers. Otherwise, scout for yellow-orange potato beetle eggs on undersides of leaves and crush them; manually remove and dispose of larvae and adults. Potato beetles can also be controlled with a spinosad insecticide.
HARVEST:
Small, “new” potatoes can be harvested beginning about 7-8 weeks after planting. Main crop tubers are harvested in fall. After foliage has died back, leave tubers in the ground for 2 weeks to set skin. Dig tubers, brush off soil, and allow skins to dry before storing. Store in a cool but not freezing (40°F/4.4°C)