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The Lily-Flowering Tulip ‘Mix’, come in various colors. The flowers are elegant with their pointed petals which bow outward at the top. The narrow, graceful and reflexed petals are sensational on strong stems. The lily-flowering tulips perennialize without naturalizing, so there is no need to lift them to divide bulbs, & they can remain in their location indefinitely. They have stunning flowers with a mild fragrance, a rarity among tulips.

Lily-Flowering Tulip: These tulips have a unique shape where the blossom resembles a lily, or, sometimes, an urn. Long, pointed petals that are curved back create this effect. From above, the open flower can look like a six-pointed star. Lily-Flowered Tulips aren’t available in dozens of different varieties, but there are compensations – their beautiful shape, for one. As well, several varieties of Lily-flowered Tulips are noted for petals edged in vibrant, contrasting colors. They are quite tall and known for their long-lasting elegant flowers. Do not prune foliage until it has died back. If flowers are used for bouquets, leave as much of the foliage as possible on the plant. Lily-flowering tulips reliably come back every year. Lily-flowering tulips are not only reliable, but they also have a look of elegance. Lift the bulbs about every 5 years or so and replant when they become too crowded.en featured solo in a drift under spring flowering trees.

Large Blooms

• Deer Won’t Eat
• Excellent Cut Flower
• Excellent for Bouquets Flowers

Tulips
Originating in the foothills of Central Europe, tulips were brought to Western Europe in the 16th century and soon became synonymous with the Dutch culture and one of the world’s most popular flowers. Tulips look best when grouped into larger sized garden plantings or pots and containers – although they also present a spectacular display when blooming in our enormous Skagit Valley fields!

• Large Blooms
• Deer Won’t Eat
• Excellent Cut Flower
• Excellent for Bouquets Flowers

Growing tulips in containers, however, lets you skip most of these frustrations. In pots, tulips are eye-catching, portable, and protected. All gardeners—regardless of whether or not they’ve had success growing tulips inground—should give this simple technique a try.
To make the containers less heavy and easier to move, place an upside-down plastic grower pot at the bottom of each container. Fill the containers two-thirds full with any inexpensive, lightweight potting mix. Don’t bother with fertilizer. Ignore traditional spacing guidelines, and place the tulip bulbs in a tight circular pattern. Cover the bulbs with potting mix, planting the bulbs at the same depth you would plant them in the ground: generally two to three times the bulb’s height.

Potting up bulbs and storing them in an unheated space mimics inground planting, and the flowers will emerge in midspring. Forcing bulbs involves planting the bulbs just below the soil surface, with their tips peeking out.

Potted in fall, forced bulbs are stored in the dark at root-cellar temperature (about 40°F), then moved from the cellar into an area with light and warmth after just 10 to 12 weeks. They flower in midwinter, well before bulbs
planted at normal depths outdoors or in containers.

In southern climates with mild winters, plant bulbs in late November or December.
Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant bulbs deep—at least 8 inches, measuring from the base of the bulb. And that means digging even deeper, to loosen the soil and allow for drainage, or creating raised beds. Remember, the bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole it needs.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly.
Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can’t bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth.
If you’re planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them a balanced fertilizer when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food.

Planting Tulip Bulbs – How to Plant Tulip Bulbs
When to Plant Your Tulip Bulbs:
If you want to fill your garden with color next spring, plant bulbs from October to December; Tulip bulbs can actually be planted right up until Christmas and still flower perfectly well in the following spring because they only need a short season of growth.
Where to Plant Your Tulip Bulbs:
Tulips perform best in full sun but will tolerate some shade. Tulips dislike wetness and require well-drained soil.They grow in most soils but if the soil is very dry, plant the bulbs a day after it has rained.
How to Plant Your Tulip Bulbs:
Prepare the site by removing any weeds or stones and use a fork or trowel to loosen and aerate the soil. Use a trowel to dig a hole large enough to fit all of the bulbs that you are planting. For large quantities, you may also dig a large bed. The depth of the hole should be twice the length of the bulb itself. Make sure the pointed end of the bulb is up in the ground.
In warmer climates plant bulbs deeper than 10 inches; the deeper you plant a tulip, the tougher it will be. Tulips planted deeper have thicker stems and fall over less often.
When planting tulips, it is nice to place them close to one another to avoid having them standing by themselves in the spring. This is one flower that always looks better in groups. You can place bulbs as close as six inches away from each other in the ground.
A great tip is to alternate rows of early, mid and late blooming tulips so you may enjoy tulips throughout the entire season!
Tulip as perennial:
Almost all Darwin Hybrid Tulips have proven to be good perennial so they would be your best bet if you are looking for years of colorful blooms.

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